Difficulty: Intermediate  |  Time: 6–10 hours  |  Cost: $40–$80 Every outdoor haunt that uses video projection eventually runs into the same problem — where do you hide the projector? This clever solution, originally shared by Rabbit101 on the Halloween Forum, builds a hollow fake tree stump from sonotube, plywood, and blue foam that conceals a projector, DVD player, and FM transmitter inside. Two very rainy Seattle seasons have proven it weather-resistant without any damage to the electronics. Audience members watched the Singing Pumpkins display for extended periods and still couldn’t figure out where the projector was — even after being told it was in the stump. Materials Material Notes Sonotube (concrete form tube) Two pieces totaling about 2/3 of a tube each; size to fit your electronics 3/4″ plywood For the base (organic root shape) and interior support circles Blue foam insulation board Cut into pieces and glued to the outside of the sonotube to build up bark shape Insulfoam spray (Great Stuff) Fills bare spots and gaps in the foam exterior 2″ PVC tube Runs through the bottom for power and audio cables 10″ exhaust fan (110V) Essential for cooling — projector overheats without it Wire coat hanger & propane torch Used together to burn realistic tree rings into the lid Hacksaw blade For carving and shaping the foam into bark texture Spray paint: black, brown, green, grey Black dissolves foam slightly for texture; layered with browns and a dry white wash Jigsaw & staple gun Cutting the base and attaching the sonotube sections Step-by-Step Instructions Step 1 — Cut the Plywood Base and Support Circles Start by cutting the plywood base in a random, organic root pattern — not a circle. Use a jigsaw to cut bumps and lobes that suggest natural...

Difficulty: Beginner  |  Build Time: 1 weekend  |  Estimated Cost: $15–$30 A ghoul pressing through a crumbling brick wall is one of the most effective cemetery displays you can build for almost no money. This prop uses a styrofoam base, hand-carved foam bricks, joint compound mortar, and a Bucky skull and hand to create the illusion of a specter forcing its way through solid masonry. It reads at distance and holds up indoors or out — and the total material cost is well under $30. Materials & Tools MaterialQty / Notes 1/2" styrofoam insulation boardOne 2×4 ft sheet for the base 1" or 2" styrofoam scrapsFor cutting individual bricks All-purpose joint compoundFor mortar in the brick gaps Bucky skeleton skullStandard full-size skeleton skull Bucky skeleton hand & armOne arm reaching forward Black poster boardBacking behind the skull for contrast String of LED lightsOrange or purple; battery-operated preferred Foam-safe construction adhesiveLiquid nails for foam or hot glue Flat black spray paintBase coat — use foam-safe formula Grey and brown craft paintDry brushing and wash coats Serrated knife or bread knifeCutting and texturing foam Wire brush or stiff-bristle brushRoughening foam brick faces Step-by-Step Instructions Step 1: Cut the Foam Base Start with a 1/2" styrofoam sheet cut to the desired finished size of your wall prop — a good starting size is 18" wide x 24" tall, which is large enough to look impressive but small enough to store flat. This base layer is the structural foundation everything else glues to. Mark your dimensions with a marker and cut with a sharp serrated knife using long, smooth strokes — sawing with short strokes tears the foam instead of slicing it cleanly. Measure and cut your foam base to the finished prop dimensions — a long serrated...

“TK421, Why aren’t you at your post?” “Because I’m in the garage building the Pumpkin King” Oh what a different film that would have been. I’m pretty sure the Empire would have been pretty impressed with the Pumpkin King that TK421 built. Check out the full tutorial over on HalloweenForum. The skeleton of this prop is composed of PVC. TK421 rolled up plastic bags and hot glued them to the PVC to create the vines. A milk jug was cut in half to act as the rib cage, and a heat gun was used over the entire frame to corpse the prop. After two coats of black paint, an incredible carved pumpkin head topped it all off. 🛒 Supplies Used in This Build These are the materials TK421 used to build the Pumpkin King. Affiliate links help support HauntersList at no extra cost to you. PVC Pipe (1″ diameter)Used for the full body skeleton and armature 🛒 Find on Amazon PVC Fittings & ConnectorsElbows and T-joints for the frame 🛒 Find on Amazon Hot Glue Gun & Glue SticksFor attaching plastic bag vines to the PVC frame 🛒 Find on Amazon Heat GunUsed to corpse the plastic bag skin over the entire frame 🛒 Find on Amazon Flat Black Spray PaintTwo coats over the entire prop before adding the pumpkin head 🛒 Find on Amazon Large Foam Pumpkin HeadThe finishing touch — carve and paint to match your vision 🛒 Find on Amazon 💀 View Full Tutorial on HalloweenForum.com → Full credit for this build goes to TK421 on HalloweenForum.com. HauntersList.com is a link aggregator — we summarize and link to the original creator’s work. Affiliate Disclosure: Some links above are Amazon affiliate links. If you purchase through them we may earn a small...

I’ve wanted to post a tutorial for a full-sized mummy for a while and haven’t been able to find one that I thought turned out a really good looking classic mummy.  It’s ironic that when I did find one it came from the Crafty Mommy and Me website, which is probably not where I would have started looking in the first place, but I’m really glad I found it. This prop started with Crafty Mommy wrapping her waist and legs in trash bags and having someone start wrapping duct tape around her starting at the waist down.  Once she was wrapped all the way down to her feet she was cut out of the duct tape wrapping by cutting a straight line down the back. The same technique should be used to wrap the torso as well,only when cutting your model out you’ll have to cut the back as well as both arms.  The lower half was then connected to the upper half and they were taped together. When taping the head you can choose to wrap your model’s head, or if anxiety is an issue, wrap a styrofoam head and then attach it to the body. Once the mummy form was complete, Crafty Mommy coated the form with some white spray paint before wrapping the entire form with a layer of tea stained gauze. The final wrapping consists of tea stained cheese cloth. This last layer is the most important since it will be the most visible layer, so make sure you cover your mummy well. This prop can be a tricky and labor intensive project, but the mummy you will produce will be well worth the time and effort.     Items needed to complete this include: Trash bags 3 Rolls duct tape White spray...

Scars are a easy way to change someone’s appearance without investing a ton of time and effort, and this tutorial from beautysbadhabit shows just how easy it can be.  The main ingredient is rigid collodion, which wrinkles the skin as it dries.          ...

The Haunted Yard in Ontario, Canada is host to Draven Cemetery, which is apparently so terrifying that it is actually scaring the trees!  Well, at least one that we know of.  The Petrified Tree is the brainchild of Trevor Baldwin, owner and caretaker of Draven Cemetery, and it’s a great looking prop that’s fairly simple to complete. The prop is composed of a post with a pool noodle wrapped around it to add some bulk to it. Some wire from coat hangers is used to make the branches of the tree.  Once you have the general shape of a tree the skulls can be added to the tree. In the tutorial, three mini plastic skulls and one full sized plastic skull were used, but that can obviously be determined by the size of your tree.  Trevor actually cut the jaws off the skulls before attaching them to the tree so that once attached the jaws could be added in more of a screaming position. With the skulls in place a few plastic leaves were added to the branches before a coat of paper mache was added to the entire tree.  Once the paper mache was completed a coat of mossy green paint was dry brushed on followed by a coat of black paint to highlight the texture and shadows.  The final step for this project was to add some fake moss around the tree.  It’s a pretty simple project but it looks fantastic and is sure to be a head turner.     Items needed to complete this include: A post Pool noodle 3 small pastic skulls 1 life sized plastic skull Coat hanger wire Plastic leaves White glue Spray bottle Paper towel Fake moss Paint       Shop These Materials on Amazon Instant Paper Mache...

If you’re a fan of American literature then you probably know that the thing the scarecrow wanted the most from the Wizard of Oz was a brain.  And that’s a great thing for fictional scarecrows to strive for, but when it comes to non-fictional scarecrows, more often than not they’re in need of more utilitarian things, such as hands.  So if your scarecrow is in need of hands then let James Mitchell be your Wizard with his tutorial on making Hands for a Halloween Scarecrow. Actually, whether or not you have need for hands for a scarecrow, this tutorial is worth watching because the bailing wire framework that it is based on is a great method for any pair of hands.  It allows for a rigid skeleton that is still completely flexible for posing.         Items needed to complete this include: Bailing wire Foam padding Compressed air hose Burlap    ...

Spectral Illusions are the creators of some spectacular visual effects for the haunt industry and they’ve just expanded their already impressive library with four new effects for the 2014 season.  Each of these new visual effects ring up at $20 and are instantly downloadable in both high definition (1920×1080) and standard definition  (720×480) formats as QuickTime movies.        ...

If you’ve taken the time to build a giant spider for your yard you’re probably going to want to follow it up by building a web for it.  There are many ways to accomplish this including cheesecloth, yarn, and even rope.  None of these methods, however, look as realistic as the Giant Orb Spiderweb that dariusobells from the HalloweenForum posted. His method involves driving nails into the trees that mirror each other and then wrapping and hot gluing fishing line to the nails in a diagonal pattern.     Every time the fishing line intersects in the center it gets wrapped and hot glued as well.  He details the pattern that he follows when driving the nails into the trees as well as the path he follows securing the fishing line to the nails as well.  I had to read it several times until it clicked in my head, and I don’t think I would be doing dariusobells justice by relaying the pattern he utilizes because his tutorial details it precisely (and probably more accurately than I would).     Once the interior support structure of the web is completed the fun really begins.  Starting near the center you’ll start weaving your fishing line around the interior supports, wrapping around each intersection.  Dariusobells glued his at every other intersection.  Continue weaving until you’ve made your way around the entire interior support and you should now have what looks like a Giant Orb Spiderweb.  Once complete, you can add some additional hot glue to the lines in between the already glued intersections to add the appearance of dew drops.     This is a tricky project and is a fairly lengthy process, but if you can get the pattern down and have a little patience the results are spectacular....

Those of you that work with paper mache regularly may find this a real snoozer, but if you’re looking to get started with paper mache clay, or are just looking for a good recipe for paper mache paste you need to watch this video.  There are a ton of recipes for making your own paper mache compounds available online, but when a prolific paper mache artist like Scott A Stoll of Stolloween Studio provides one, you’d be well advised to follow it. His tutorial makes a large quantity of paste and clay but it’s a simple recipe that will keep for a few days without refrigeration.  The paper mache clay that this produces is spreadable, will hold it’s shape and allows you the ability to smooth it out and add fine details to your creations.       Items needed to complete this include:   Paper Mache Paste 6 cups flour 1 cup liquid starch 1 cup white glue   For Paper Mache Clay 6 cups Paper Mache Paste (recipe above) 1 cup of drywall joint compound  Cellulose fiber insulation added until mix is firm     Shop These Materials on Amazon Instant Paper Mache Powder Mix 3.3 lbs Assorted 12" Latex Balloons 120-Pack Affiliate Disclosure: HauntersList.com is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program. As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases at no extra cost to...

If you’re looking for something a little different than the same old PVC candles to illuminate your haunt you may want to try these Witches Lantern Jars. S.K. Austin of The Haunting Grounds has a tutorial to make them and its a really simple process.  They don’t cost much to make and they give off a really creepy glow.       Items needed to complete this include: Mason jar Freaky Fabric / Creepy Cloth Jute twine Jute wire Paint Hot glue       Shop These Materials on Amazon RGB LED Strip Lights 16.4ft with 44-Key Remote Waterproof Outdoor Flameless Flickering LED Candles Set of 2 RGBW Color Changing Outdoor Landscape Spot Uplights 6-Pack Affiliate Disclosure: HauntersList.com is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program. As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases at no extra cost to...

If you’ve ever wondered why chicken feet are so prevalent in the Voodoo community it’s because they’re used as a charm for a powerful form of protection.  They can be used to protect individuals as well as their personal belongings from negative energies that want to possess them.  It doesn’t end there, though, because in some parts of the South, the chicken foot can be used to place a curse on someone as well, with the most powerful of the chicken feet said to be the ones that come from black feathered chickens. So if you’re planning on a section of your haunt being remotely tied to Voodoo you’d better have a good chicken foot handy.  In case you don’t have one, Pumpkin5 from the HalloweenForum has a brief tutorial on how to make a Clay Voodoo Chicken Foot and it’s really simple. You’ll need to cut a wire coat hanger and piece together the wire into the shape of the talons of the chicken’s foot. Cover the wire coat hanger with some sculpey clay and add some detail to the clay so that it looks more like the crackled texture of a chicken’s foot. When painting it, it appears that Pumpkin5 used a base coat of yellow with some flesh tones mixed throughout and then followed it up by dry brushing some black so that the cracks would be nicely darkened. It looks great and will probably last longer than an actual chicken’s foot, however, there is no guarantee that it will indeed protect and or curse anyone.     Items needed to complete this include: Wire coat hanger Sculpey modeling clay Paint Feathers  ...

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The Creep in a Can is a great prop based on Jeff Baird’s original Leering Skeleton prop.  It’s easy to build and the fact that it’s housed in a trash can means you don’t have to worry about building something to hide the mechanism.  This video walk through of the prop that Noah Fentz, that creepyguynextdoor, built should give you more than enough of a view of the mechanics to get it done.           Shop These Materials on Amazon 12V Wiper Motor 2.5" Shaft 110 Degree (prop building) PWM DC Motor Speed Controller 9-70V 35A 45Kg High-Torque Waterproof Digital Servo Motor Affiliate Disclosure: HauntersList.com is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program. As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases at no extra cost to...

If you’re interested in building some wall panels for your haunt you’re going to want to check in with Terra from the HalloweenForum before you begin. The tutorial for building haunt wall panels that she added to Scaryladyvideos  offers an easy and effective design for framing and then covering the panel with landscape fabric.  They’re pretty easy to make, and the use of velcro strips for securing the fabric is the perfect solution.     Items needed to complete this include: 32 feet – 1 x 2 furring strips (6) Screws DeWitt Weed Barrier Pro 6300 Velcro strips Staples...

If you’re looking to start using pneumatics for your props or just want to see what’s needed to make the transition, Automation Direct has a four part tutorial series that will help get you started.  Each video is pretty basic, covering little more than the essentials to make a prop work with compressed air, but it should be enough to get your feet wet.  They’ll also gladly sell you all the parts you need to make your pneumatic prop a reality.   Be sure to click on the playlist button to access all 4 videos         Shop These Materials on Amazon 1/4" NPT Solenoid Valve DC12V 5-Way Double-Acting Pneumatic Air Cylinder 40mm x 100mm 1/4" OD Push-to-Connect Pneumatic Fittings Kit 40-Piece Affiliate Disclosure: HauntersList.com is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program. As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases at no extra cost to...

If the Devil is in the details then you’d better make sure you get the details right.  And if you’re looking to add a little detail to any haunt an easy way to add some subtle depth is to make some creepy Embossed Leather Books. Lindsey of the Better After blog has a technique that makes really authentic looking Embossed Leather Books and it’s a quick and simple process. You’ll start by hot glueing whatever you want to appear on your books.  Once everything is dry take some damp paper towels and mod podge them to the books.  This will give them a leathery appearance when dry. Once everything was dry Lindsey added a base coat of black paint to her books and then applied some gold rub-n-buff and copper metallic paint to bring out the details of the embossed items. The process is painless and turns old boring books into incredible looking old tomes.   Items needed to complete this include: Old books Items to glue to the cover Paper towels Mod podge Black paint Metallic paint Gold rub-n-buff paint...

The Chelsea Smile is an absolutely barbaric way to permanently disfigure and possibly kill someone.  I cannot imagine in my worst nightmare doing this to another human being, but then again, that’s what nightmares are for.  And rest assured, if you’re interested in giving people nightmares, you’re going to want to incorporate this tutorial that goldiestarling posted on the Chesea Smile.  It’s not overly complicated and looks completely gruesome.    ...

TheIronMan has a tutorial that proves that if you’re creative enough you can make a monster out of just about anything.  The Bucket Head Monster is a surreal looking character that is easy to make and costs next to nothing (quite possibly nothing if you look hard enough). You’ll start by cutting your craft paper so that it wraps all the way around the bucket, then cutting the paper lengthwise, folding it over, and then taping the two pieces together.   You’ll need to draw your monster head on the paper similar to the image.  Once complete, cut the shape with the scissors and tape the resulting template onto the pail.  Using the marker trace the template onto the bucket. Cut out the template you just traced onto the bucket with your jigsaw and connect the two pieces by drilling holes in the base of each piece and securing the bolts.  Once your head starts to take shape you’ll want to use the heat gun to shape the monster’s teeth.  Simply heat the plastic until soft and let gravity do the rest. Add a coat of spray paint to your Bucket Head Monster and your build is complete!  You can rig your monster with some fishing line by drilling a few small holes in the top of the head and the lower jaw which will allow you to add some motion to the jaw.     Items needed to complete this include: 5 gallon bucket. Marker. Jig saw. Heat gun Craft paper Scissors. (2) #8-32 X 3/4″ bolts and nuts. High strength fishing line Spray paint  ...

Aliens exist.  And since aliens exist it is not much of a stretch to assume that aliens sleep.  And if aliens do sleep, I am going to assume that their advanced alien minds have probably followed jakel’s lead and bypassed the box spring and mattress in favor of  Alien Sleep Tubes. This prop is super easy to make and looks seriously cool when lit up.  Start out by cutting a square approximately 18″ x 20″ on one end of the tube. Spray the two lids and tube with the black spray paint and start to build your alien.  Once the paint is dry you can roll the plexiglass and slide it into the tube so that it is covering the opening you cut. Letting the Alien Sleep Tube sit in a warm area for a couple of days will allow the plastic to relax inside the tube.  Once the plexiglass has set you can insert your alien into his sleep chamber and seal him in with the bucket lids for his eternal (if not seasonal) slumber.   Items needed to complete this include: Alien mask / costume 12″ concrete tube Pillow for alien body (2) – 5 gallon bucket lids (one with a port if you want to add fog) Flashlight 24″ x 24″ x 1/16″...

A quick blast from a horn coupled with a burst of light can be startling and disorienting when you’re making your way through a haunt, and those are always two great benchmarks to strive for. Brad Silvertein of Brads Boo Barn has a tutorial for making Blow Horn Lights, which will more than accomplish this, and the idea of putting it inside a lunch pail allows for it to become the perfect portable solution as well!     Items needed to complete this include: Lunch pail 12volt 8amp sealed lead acid battery Flashlight Horn Horn switch Wire Foam insulation  ...

Mounting your Flying Crank Ghost can be a challenge, especially if you’ve got nothing above it to hang it from. The Wolfstone Group had this same problem and came up with the idea to Mount a Flying Crank Ghost using electrical metallic tubing (EMT).  Its a really creative and simple idea that allows you to get your Flying Crank Ghost really high off the ground. You’ll need to start by pounding the ends of three 1/2″ EMT conduit completely flat.  Next, you’ll bend the flattened ends to almost 90 degrees and then drill a hole through the flattened end. Once flattened and drilled, you’ll simply bolt it to your Flying Crank Ghost frame at it’s three main points.  The great part about this is you can join multiple lengths of EMT with EMT tubing couplers. You’ll have to determine how much wind you’re going to have to account for when deciding how high to go, but it shouldn’t be too much of a stretch to get your Flying Crank Ghost up at least 10 feet if not more!   Items needed to complete this include: Flying Crank Ghost assembly (3) – 10′ sections of 1/2″ EMT (3) – 1/2″ EMT tubing couplets (3) – nuts / bolts to secure EMT to FCG frame Black spray paint   Shop These Materials on Amazon 1/3HP Replacement Ceiling Fan Motor (for FCG builds) Braided Fishing Line — thin gauge for rigging 120" Wide White Sheer Voile Fabric x 25 Yards Affiliate Disclosure: HauntersList.com is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program. As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases at no extra cost to...

What do you get when you take a plastic skull and shove it into a funkin foam pumpkin?  Epic awesomeness is what you get my friends!  Think that’s overselling it just a bit?  Well, maybe it is, but after looking at the wicked Pumpkin Demon prop The-Hog-Flu built by doing just that I am content with that designation. The prop started by cutting a hole in the funkin and shoving the skull inside.  Some sculpting material was then added to fill the gap between the skull and the pumpkin and to also give the face a little bit more detail.   Once the sculpting material was applied and sanded down a base coat of a darker blend of orangish-brown paint was applied. The eyes were crafted out of ping pong balls and it appears that the teeth were cut from an opaque plastic bottle (the tongue is a mystery).  Note to self: hot glue makes for a nice coating of drool. The lower body was constructed with a hybrid 1 x 2 wood base and a PVC spine that was wrapped with some tree branches where visible, as well as chicken wire near the lower legs.  The upper chest consists of a piece of plywood. The-Hog-Flu added some spray foam over the plywood and then inserted another branch for the neck of the pumpkin demon where the head will be attached.  The lower portion was also spray foamed and a variety of skulls and lesser pumpkins were peppered throughout. Once completed the upper torso was given a coat of purple spray paint while the lower body was a mixture of blood red and green.  The-Hog-Flu fabricated a rib cage and some incredibly detailed arms out of branches. The word epic is too easily tossed around, but if a picture is worth a thousand...

A while back I mentioned that I’m not much of an electrician, and this tutorial pretty much puts the exclamation point on that thought. I’m pretty sure there should be more than just cardboard and aluminum foil needed to generate power of any kind, but that’s literally all that’s needed to power the Pressure Plate that Rick Osgood made in this tutorial. It’s a great way to save a few bucks and still get a trigger for your props!...

If you’re planning on going with a pirate themed haunt you’re going to need a treasure chest, and IMU posted a great tutorial on how to make a treasure chest out of a cardboard box at the HalloweenForum. Start by cutting the side flaps of your box into half rounds and then hot glue the front flaps to the side. You’ll have to cut a thin piece of cardboard to add to the center since the front flaps are now extending further since the sides are rounded. IMU cut out a space on top that the treasure will peek out through.     The metal banding consists of foam core along the top and bottom edges as well as the side and centers. Once completed the gaps were smoothed out with a little paper towel mâché and then some wood grain was applied using monster mud.     After applying a latch and some hinges crafted from a plastic coat hanger (if you don’t have access to a similar hanger you can buy some small hinges and a latch) it’s ready for paint!     IMU gave it a base coat of black rubber spray paint since it would be sitting outside. Some various wood colors were dry brushed on as well as 2 varieties of metal colored paint for detail. The final touch was adding some rivets throughout the metal bands to give it a really sturdy appearance. The finished chest looks amazing, IMU did a spectacular job with this and it costs next to nothing to make.     Items needed to complete this include: Cardboard box Foam core Hot glue Rivets Black spray paint Wood colored paint Metal colored paint  ...

There are few things in life as disconcerting as waking up after a night camping in the woods than to see a bunch of these creepy totems hanging from the trees surrounding you.  And thanks to the tutorial posted by pooky73 over at the HalloweenForum I’ll be well prepared to instill a bit of the Blair Witch fear into everybody on our next trip because these things are incredibly easy to make! Start by cutting some branches for your dolls, you’ll need an equal amount of “Y” pieces and straight pieces for however many you choose to make. Add some hot glue where you want your straight piece to sit and when it’s dry flip it over and add some more hot glue to reinforce the other side of it. Grab a piece of burlap and then fold it diagonally to form a triangle, then fold it diagonally again to form an even smaller triangle and cut the tip off of it.  You’ll now have a perfect piece of burlap with a square hole in the dead center for you to slip over the doll. Add some hot glue to the stem of the doll as well as the arms, slide the burlap over it and press down so the glue will stick to the burlap.  You’ll need to do this to both the front and back of your dolls.  The final step is to cut a couple of pieces of jute.  The first piece should be wrapped around your dolls waist to look like a belt and the other can be tied to the top of the doll to hang it from a tree.   These dolls are easy to make and are a great way to add a little extra atmosphere to any haunt (or backyard).    ...

So is it a prop or is it a costume?  That’s the question I was left with after watching the tutorial on the Anti-Gravity Machine that Brick in the Yard Mold Supply created.  However you decide to categorize it, there is no question that it is completely awesome.  It’s an incredibly intricate build that was definitely worth the effort.  While an anti-gravity machine may not fit in a haunt (or be comfortable to wear at a Halloween party for that matter), the concept behind it could certainly be implemented and is worthy of at least a cursory look....

In less than one month the Midwest Haunters Convention will be descending upon Columbus, Ohio and if you have even the slightest passion for haunting you’re not going to want to miss this event! Billed as the largest Halloween show of its kind in the US this three-day event is filled with Haunt Tours, parties, fashion shows, the Miss Scary Midwest pageant, an enormous trade show, an insane amount of seminars, and of course, the Scariest Character Contest to boot! The 11th annual event (the first since the event was purchased by Transworld) will feature a 75,000 square foot vendor trade show with over 100 of the heaviest hitters in the haunt industry.   2014 Pricing: Bus Tours Thursday Pre-Con Bus Tour – $140 Online Friday Day Paranormal Bus Tour – $80 Online Friday Evening Combo (Hanted House Tour, Scare Factory Tour and After Party) Bus Tour – $59 Online Friday Night After Party ONLY – $29 Online Seminars For a list of seminars, instructors, times & locations, click HERE. Friday Friday Morning Seminars (Half-Day) – $65 Online  /  $75 On-Site Friday Afternoon Seminars (Half-Day) – $65 Online  /  $75 On-Site Friday All Day Pass –  $100 Online  /  $120 On-Site All of Friday’s Seminars Weekend Pass – $195 Online / $220 On-Site Weekend Pass Includes Friday evening events, Saturday seminars, Trade show floor and masquerade party. Saturday Individual Saturday Classes (1 Hr) – $25 Online  /  $35 On-Site Individual Saturday Demos (1 Hr) – $25 Online  /  $35 On-Site Saturday All Day Pass –  $125 Online  / $145 On-Site Special Saturday Seminars Total Fabrication and Application of Silicone Prosthetics (3 Hrs.) – $75 Online – Allen Hopps, Stiltbeast Studios / Darkest Hour Weekend Pass Detailing Tips, Tricks and Secrets! (3 Hrs.) – $75 Online  – Mike “Tattoo” Krausert, Thirteenth Floor Entertainment Group Sunday Sunday Morning Long Session (3 Hr) – $75 Online  /  $85 On-Site Sunday Afternoon Long Session (3 Hr) – $75 Online  /  $85 On-Site Other Events SCARY-OKE – FREE for...

If you’re looking for a creative alternative to the paper mache skull then feast your eyes on the tutorial for Burlap Skulls that OctART posted over at the HalloweenForum.  It’s pretty much the same process as making a paper mache skull (although considerably less messy) and the finished burlap skull looks amazingly creepy with a tea light inside. You’ll need to start by wrapping your skull with aluminum foil and then cut your burlap into strips. Grab your hot glue gun and start to apply the burlap over the foil covering as much of the skull as necessary.  You’ll want to make sure that you don’t use too much glue in the back so you’ll be able to pull it off the skull. Also, if you’re planning on using a tea light, make sure you’re only applying one layer of burlap where your light will shine through.  You’ll have to remove the foil from those areas as well.  Once all the burlap is in place and dried you can remove it from the skull and spray it will some of your sealant. Items needed to complete this include: Skull Aluminum foil Burlap Hot glue Spray sealant Tea lights (optional) Shop These Materials on Amazon Instant Paper Mache Powder Mix 3.3 lbs Assorted 12" Latex Balloons 120-Pack Realistic Replica Human Skull Statue 6.5" 5.4ft Full Size Halloween Foam Skeleton Affiliate Disclosure: HauntersList.com is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program. As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases at no extra cost to...

If you’re looking to add a little excitement to your haunt, or just want to give the trick or treaters a quick startle before sugaring them up for the season, then a rumble bridge might be just what you need.  It’s a pretty simple project to build and the guys over at CreepyCreations have created a great video detailing how its done.   How to Build A Rumble Bridge   The completed Rumble Bridge:   Items needed to complete this inlclude: (1) – 3/4″ sheet of plywood (4) – 2×2 wood, 36″ long (4) – 2×2 wood, 30″ long (1) – 2×2 wood, 48″ long (2) – 2×4 wood, 43″ long (4) – 2×4 wood, 25″ long (4) – 4×4 wood, 6 to 8″ long (2) – 4″ diameter rubber balls (1) – clamp (1) – bracket (1) – 2 oz fishing weight (8) – 7″ bolts with nuts & washer – 1/2″ diamter Assorted screws, nuts & bolts for weight Hot glue Metal strapping High speed motor   Shop These Materials on Amazon 12V Wiper Motor 2.5" Shaft 110 Degree (prop building) PWM DC Motor Speed Controller 9-70V 35A 45Kg High-Torque Waterproof Digital Servo Motor Affiliate Disclosure: HauntersList.com is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program. As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases at no extra cost to...

Everybody loves PVC candles. They’re easy to make and offer some nice ambient lighting without having to fear burning your house down. They’re also incredibly realistic looking, with the one exception being that they are not as translucent as an actual candle when lit. That’s precisely what led Sipesh at the HalloweenForum to come up with a Slightly Different Take on the PVC Candle, utilizing clear plastic fluorescent light bulb protectors instead of PVC.  They’re available at Home Depot and come in four foot lengths. The process is the same as when making PVC candles. You’ll start by cutting you tube to the desired length and then dripping some hot glue along the outside edge of the tube so that it runs down the side. Once covered with glue you’ll need to give it a coat of spray paint. Lighter colors will achieve the translucent effect better than dark but don’t let that stop you from experimenting. After the spray paint has dried you’ll need to build a base for your tea light. Sipesh recommends putting a piece of styrofoam in there as a base, but I suspect you could spray a small amount of great stuff in the tube so that it rises to the desired height you want the tea ligh at as well. That’s all there is to it, but the end result looks great, these really glow nicely.   Items needed to complete this include: Clear plastic tubes Hot glue Spray paint Styrofoam base Tea light Shop These Materials on Amazon 1" Schedule 40 PVC Pipe 6-Pack Ratcheting PVC Pipe Cutter (up to 1-1/4") 1" PVC Furniture Fittings Assortment 12-Pack Oatey PVC Clear Cement + Primer Handy Pack Affiliate Disclosure: HauntersList.com is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program. As an Amazon...

There’s nothing more satisfying than creating your own talking skull.  I would have no way of knowing this since I opted to purchase one for fear that I would horribly botch the installation, but I honestly suspect there’s nothing more satisfying than creating your own.  With that in mind, Scary Terry has a great tutorial on Installing a Servo in a Bucky Skull.   You’ll start by building a mounting bracket for your servo out of aluminum and then you’ll mount the servo bracket in the Bucky skull (ok, there’s a little more to it, but trust me, you’re going to need to check out Scary Terry’s Tutorial). You’re going to break the jaw of your skull next and reconnect it utilizing the zip ties as the new pivot point of the jaw.   You’ll next drill a hole in the skull and connect the servo to the jaw using a piece of the music wire.   That’s all there is to it, more or less, but you’ll still need an audio circuit to drive the servo.  Luckily, Scary Terry has an audio circuit solution as well!   Items needed to complete this include: Bucky Skull Servo (HiTec HS-425BB – See details at ServoCity) (2) 3/4″ long 1″x1″x1/16″ angle aluminum 0.039″ Music wire, aka piano wire (1) 1/2″ #6 screw, nut, washer Servo mounting hardware (#4/ 40 screws and nuts) (2) 4″ Zip ties   Shop These Materials on Amazon Realistic Replica Human Skull Statue 6.5" 5.4ft Full Size Halloween Foam Skeleton Affiliate Disclosure: HauntersList.com is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program. As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases at no extra cost to...

If you’re looking to serve Ladyfingers you’ll want to pair them with tea, pudding, or ice cream. If you’re looking to sever Lady fingers, on the other hand, you’ll probably want to take a look at the tutorial that Rachel from SplatterFactoryTV posted.  She details a remarkably easy way to make a quick casting of your own finger using liquid latex and makeup.  The great thing is, all of the details of your finger will be imprinted on your castings, giving it a remarkably realistic appearance.  The process is so simple you’ll have no problem making enough for everybody to eat!     Items needed to complete this include: Liquid latex Tissue paper Hair dryer Flesh tone makeup/foundation...

  The 2013 Home Haunter DVD Collection is now available and if you have a passion for haunting you’re going to want to check this out!  For a mere $28 (plus an additional $4.50 to help cover Postage and PayPal costs) you’ll get six full discs filled with 91 Home Haunts.  If you are a contributer to the DVD you’ll get an additional 25% discount (e-mail will be verified).  There’s sure to be something on these discs that will inspire you! Appearing on the 2013 DVD’s:   DISK #1 Haunt Location Category 2nd Street Cemetery Covington, LA Yard Haunt The 39th Street Cemetery Saint Joseph, MO Yard Haunt Aaron Hart Halloween Ashburn, VA Yard Haunt Adams Haunted Manor Wichita Falls, TX Home Haunt Arcadia Asylum Home Haunt Home Haunt Black Friars Monastery Home Haunt A Haunted Halloween at Blackstone Cemetery Brampton, Ontario,Canada Home Haunt Bloody Moon Carnival Saint-Philibert, Qc Canada Home Haunt The Boneyard Sioux Falls, SD Home Haunt The Butcher of Prvincetown Haunted House Scarborough, Ontario, Canada Home Haunt Cannibal Clown Cafe Indiananapolis, IN Home Haunt Canyon Trail Cemetery Carol Stream, IL Yard Haunt Cappys FunHouse Arlington, TX Home Haunt DISK #2 Haunt Location Category Casa Fear Broomfield, CO Yard Haunt Darkrose Manor Aurora, CO Home Haunt Davis Manor Hood River, OR Home Haunt Davis Graveyard Milwaukie, OR Yard Haunt Dead End Yucaipa, CA Yard Haunt Denville Holiday Lights Denville, NJ Yard Haunt Desoto Asylum Needles, CA Home Haunt The Never Moor – Dimmick Family Halloween Haunt Spanish Fork, UT Home Haunt Dismal Hill Cemetery Portland, OR Yard Haunt Distant Screams Haunted House Maryville, IL Home Haunt Dr.Phobia’s Clown Experiment Mexico,MO Home Haunt Dunnett’s Dark Lair Barrie, Ontario Canada Yard Haunt Evil On Everest Lombard, IL Yard Haunt Fear House Fort Worth, TX Home...

I love scarecrows.  There’s something eerily majestic about the way they stand guard over isolated fields, just swaying in the wind.  They’re selfless as they monitor everything that happens, day and night, silently watching.  Waiting.  I’m pretty sure they eat the birds that make the mistake of landing on them, and its entirely possible that they do get off their perches and walk around while I’m asleep, but, I can’t confirm that. With all of that said, if you’re interested in building a scarecrow, Nightfisher posted some great details on the build of his Creepy Scarecrow over at the HalloweenForum that are worth looking at. This project started by hot glueing some burlap over a foam skull and stretching it tight so most of the features of the skull would be visible through the burlap. After adding some stains and shadows Nightfisher added some large metal staples along the scarecrows mouth.  The skull itself rests on a PVC spine. The shoulders and arms of the scarecrow were crafted with some heavy branches. The torso was created by spraying some Great Stuff over a 2 inch block of styrofoam. Nightfisher did an awesome job of spraying the ribs with expanding foam because I’ve got to imagine that was a fairly stressful process.  A few vines were sprayed over the ribs as well to complete the torso. Once completed some black latex was painted in between the ribs and all of the crevices of the torso.  A base coat of brown was dry brushed on after the black latex dried followed by another layer of black and a final coat of light brown.  The vines were given a coat of green paint.  Finishing touches included adding some stitches to the eyes, wrapping some twine around the joints of the arms and hands, and of course, adding a...

If you need a rib cage for your haunt and are down to you last few bucks, don’t worry, be happy, because the Count over at the HalloweenForum has created a tutorial on how to create a Cheap Skeletal Rib Cage. It all starts with a trip to WalMart to pickup one of their 18″ high, plain white plastic trash cans. You’ll want to draw your ribcage, sternum and spine on the trash can (the Count recommends using 1/2″ masking tape to delineate the ribs).  Once your outline is complete you’ll need to grab a pair of tin snips and carefully cut out the dead space between the ribs. Make sure to save the bottom and top for last to provide extra stability to the trash can. Once the ribcage is cut it’s time to put some meat on those ribs! The Count mixed and quickly spread several batches of a two part polyurethane foam on his ribcage. Once dried a few layers of reddish brown and black latex paint were added followed by a final coat of lacquer. The finished ribcage looks great and I never would have guessed that it came from WalMart!     Items needed to complete this include: 18″ White trash can 2 part Polyurethane foam Reddish brown latex paint Black latex paint...

Bamboo, while often being mistaken for wood, is actually an incredibly strong grass. It’s got an ultimate tensile strength of 265 MPa (Megapascals), which is pretty incredible when you consider that cast iron only carries with it an ultimate strength of 200 MPa (spider silk has an incredible 1200 MPa, fyi).  This is no doubt the reason that a single 8 foot bamboo cage could contain 5 stranded castaways so well. PVC on the other hand only carries an ultimate strength of 52 MPa, but since it is considerably cheaper and easier to get than bamboo you might want to consider using petejc’s tutorial to make some Faux Bamboo if you have the need to build a cage. You’ll start by using some acetone to clean all of the writing off of the PVC. Once the PVC has been cleaned you’ll want to cut some notches with a razor blade around the pipe for the bamboo nodes. Petejc recommends going around the pipe a couple of times to get the notch deeper for a better effect. Once the nodes are notched in you’re going to need to grab a blow torch and heat your PVC up a bit. This will not only give it a slight discoloration, but will also allow you to compress the pipe a little bit to give the nodes an actual raised appearance. Once the nodes are complete it’s time to sand and stain the PVC. Petejc went with an amber shellac instead of stain on his bamboo. Sanding the pipe adds some texture to the pipe allowing the shellac to adhere to. The shellac when applied with a rag gives a great uneven finish that looks amazingly like real bamboo.     Items needed to complete this include: PVC Blow torch...

It’s one thing to make realistic looking eyeballs for use in a skull or creature, but what if you want eyeballs that have been freshly plucked from their sockets?  You know what I’m talking about, the eyeball that’s being pecked at by a crow with muscles and optic nerve still attached.  If that’s what you’re looking for, and trust me, you definitely want some of these, then you’re going to want to check out the Gorey Eyeballs tutorial that Chiapetrescue posted. You’ll start with your pristine, perfectly round eyeball and add a few layers of hot glue to the bottom of it. Once you’ve got a couple layers of hot glue added you’re going to start turning it upside down to let the hot glue start running.   Once you’ve built up enough layers of hot glue to give the appearance of an extended optic nerve, you’re ready for painting.  Chiapetrescue did an awesome job of painting these by starting with a base coat of red spray paint for a bit of a splatter effect and then added an additional coat of red acrylic to it.  Some black acrylic paint was then dry brushed over the base to add a darker finish to it.  A final coat of polyurethane was applied to give it a glossy appearance.  The finished eye balls look fantastically gruesome and are incredibly easy to make.   Items needed to complete this include: Plastic eyeballs Glue Gun Glue Sticks Red Spray Paint Red Acrylic Paint Black Acrylic...

Ok, remember when you were getting ready to use the Frankenstein Plans to build your very own Frankenstein and it said you’d have to supply your own set of hands? Well unless you were able to run out to your local Halloween store and buy a pair of hands you were out of luck. And a Frankenstein without hands isn’t very scary now is it? Making your own hands isn’t that difficult though, and the crew over at Screaming Scarecrow Studios have created a simple tutorial on how to make really great looking monster hands using latex gloves, witches fingers, and some expanding foam. You’ll start by turning the glove inside out and cutting a small slit in the tips of the fingers of your rubber glove.  Once you’ve got your witches fingers securely inserted into each of the fingers you’ll need to get a 12″ piece of 1/2″ pvc pipe for an arm bone.  You’ll need to drill a hole in both the bottom and top of your pipe approximately an inch from the bottom.  Once you’ve got your holes drilled you’re going to thread some wire through the hole in the pipe to secure the hand to the bone. You’ll also need to secure the wire through the witch’s fingers which is what will keep the hand secured to the bone once its filled with foam.  Once you’ve got your hand securely wired to the arm bone you’re ready to add some foam.  You can hang the hand by threading another wire through the hole you drilled in the top of the pvc. It may take a while for the foam to fully cure (2 to 3 days), but once they’ve hardened you can remove the glove from around the hands.  You’ll need...

If you’ve ever wanted a motion sensor to trigger your Halloween props but didn’t feel like laying out the cash for an overpriced store bought unit then pay close attention.  The reality is, they’re not that difficult to make if you’ve got a moderate amount of electrical skills and you’ll end up with a unit that is tailor made for your use.  You’ll also end up saving yourself a lot of money because once you realize how easy it is, you’ll want to make more!  I’m sure the folks at Eerie Acres Cemetery wouldn’t mind you sending some of that extra cash their way because they’ve posted a really descriptive tutorial on how to create a motion sensor that will more than get you up and running creating your own.     Items needed to complete this include: Replacement motion sensor GFCI outlet 4 hole single gang outdoor outlet box (metal) Outdoor electrical outlet cover (metal) Clamps for gang box PC power cable Threaded ground stake Silicone...

Any Halloween prop that necessitates the drinking of beer is naturally going to pique my interest. After all, Halloween prop building and beer go together like peanut butter and jelly, right?  I’m pretty sure Ollieee who posted a great tutorial over at the HalloweenForum detailing how to make a small faux wood barrel using an empty 5 liter mini-keg would agree with me.  Ok, truth is, you don’t really have to buy a keg filled with beer to get this done, you can purchase empty mini-kegs from Midwest Supplies and save a few bucks, but what fun is that.   You’ll start by emptying the barrel if you opted for one filled with beer, you can use whatever method you like for this step, however a pint sized glass works best for me. Once emptied make sure you give it’s good rinse out to remove any leftover suds and the give the exterior a light sanding.  Ollieee gave the barrel a solid base coat of flat black paint, then an additional coat of a dark brown flat paint.     Once the brown base is completed you’ll want to add some faux wood grain to your barrel.  Once the wood grain is completed you’re going to want to paint some metal bands around the barrel as well as any additional decorative text to complete your barrel.     The finished product is pretty great looking and the barrel is just the right size to make me feel like a giant pirate, Arrr!   Items needed to complete this include: 5 liter mini-keg A drinking buddy (optional)...

If you’re a fan of Kindred Moon Productions video projection effects then you’ll want to checkout their latest offerings for 2014.  The additions to their already impressive lineup include:   Mirror Mirror Effects Kit – $1000   Pumpkins Volume 3 – $34.99   Zombies –...

If you’re interested in making your own skulls, and I’m talking seriously making a lot of your own skulls, then you’re going to need a pretty serious mold to cast them in. You can use the Cheap Easy Skulls method provided by Dr. Kreepy, but if you’re interested in some serious skulls you’re going to want to checkout the tutorial that The Devil’s Workshop posted. Creating your mold is a pretty elaborate process but this two part tutorial will walk you through the process from start to finish. http://youtu.be/T261p0MAHdA Shop These Materials on Amazon Realistic Replica Human Skull Statue 6.5" 5.4ft Full Size Halloween Foam Skeleton Affiliate Disclosure: HauntersList.com is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program. As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases at no extra cost to...

I’ve always wanted to do a bottomless pit but it’s always seemed like more effort than It was worth. I’ve always told myself that if I had an extra two way mirror that I’d build one for sure. That’s not really a valid excuse, though, because I could always make a Two Way Mirror. Bottom line, I guess I’m just too lazy to make this prop, but that shouldn’t stop you because it’s really not that difficult of a build. Trisha Morse put together a nice tutorial based on Larry Lund’s original build that employs the use of a home made plexiglass two way mirror. You’ll start by building the support frames for the two mirrors. You’re going to cut a groove in the length of your 2×4 to slide the mirror into. Once you’ve got all grooves cut in your four frame pieces you can screw three of them together, slide your mirror in and attach the final 2×4. The walls of the pit are framed with 3/8″ plywood that are secured together using L-brackets. Wood blocks on the outside bottom and top of the walls of the pit allow for it to sit on top of the frame with the regular mirror, while the frame holding the two way mirror can sit on top. This allows the pit walls to run straight into the bottom mirror which is reflecting the two way mirror above, which is also reflecting the pit walls. Since you’ll be viewing it through the two way mirror side, you won’t have to worry about seeing your own reflection. You can add styrofoam rocks to both the inside and outside of your pit to make it look a bit more realistic and you’ll want to be sure to add...

I used to know a girl named Shelly, and while she was hardly what I would consider creepy, I couldn’t help but think of her when I saw undead_october’s tutorial for Creepy Shelly. And that would probably bum her out because Creepy Shelly is terrifying! I mean, I genuinely find it unsettling. Job well done undead_october. I also have to give a tip of the hat to undead_october because I had heretofore never heard of snot rag mâché, or the process of utilizing Kleenex, glue, and water, in place of the typical paper mâché. Again, job well done! This macabre masterpiece started with a child sized skull sculpted using DAS clay. It was hot glued to a two liter bottle that was then attached to a wood base. After extending the neck over the bottle with more clay some aluminum foil arms and shoulders were attached to the bottle with more hot glue. The legs were created with wood dowels attached to the undersized of the wood base and the feet were crafted using oval pieces of craft wood. Once the full frame was in place the entire body was snot rag mâchéd. The final part of the body was the hands, which were sculpted with more clay. Once the body is fully sculpted and mâchéd it was given a coat of brown paint. Undead_october did more than just slap some brown paint on Shelly, though, the highlights added give a truly decayed look to Shelly.   Items needed to complete this include: DAS modeling clay Aluminum foil 2 liter bottle Wood base Wood dowel 2 – Oval wood plaques Kleenex Elmer’s glue Brown paint Old dress...

My mother was the driving force behind my love for all things Halloween. She was born on October 31st so I suppose there was little chance that she wouldn’t love Halloween herself, but It was more than just Halloween. She had a great appreciation for classic horror films, too. I remember on Saturday evenings our local UHF channel (UHF, how’s that for dating yourself!?) would show a classic horror film followed with a few of the old Flash Gordon episodes. Saturday Night at the Movies was a staple at our house and those films have always been a major source of my inspiration. For that I have my mother to thank, and while I can’t imagine my mother doing many of the tutorials on HauntersList, this Deluxe Witches Broom tutorial that Stanley Basconbe (aka Gary Benson) posted is exactly the kind of crafting project that my mother would have loved to do. And she would have owned it, too. You’ll need to start off with a standard straw broom. You’re going to want to remove the metal band if it has one and then cut off the twine that holds the bristles in place. Once you’ve got the twine removed you’ll have a pretty nicely fanned out broom. You’ll want to remove the outer layer of the bristles to create a more narrow broom. At this point you’ll want to focus your attention on creating the ferrule, which is crafted from an automotive oil funnel. You’ll need to cut it down so that it will fit down the broom handle. Once you’ve got the ferrule in place you’re going to want to hot glue some grass skirt to the top of the bristles which will complete your witches broom. Of course you can decorate...

Allen Hopps has a brain the size of a baked potato. Ok, now that I’ve got your attention I should probably rephrase that. Allen’s got a great tutorial on how to easily make a brain in a jar that starts out roughly the size of a baked potato and requires far fewer ingredients than I would put on said potato. His method starts by balling up some aluminum foil and then adding some caulk to it to create the sulci and gyri (brain grooves). Once you drop it in a jar filled with water the size of the brain looks deceptively larger! Items needed to complete this include: 1 gallon jar Aluminum foil Gray silicone caulk Black paint White acrylic paint Polyurethane spray...

Ever hear the phrase “Go big or go home”?  Well I’m pretty sure Rania Peet has, and her larger than life Halloween props sure live up to that standard.  This time she’s set her sites on The Build of Giant Mushrooms, and her finished fungi could not have turned out any better! Her mushroom build is broken down into three core parts: the stem, the cap and the underside gills.  Realistically, I could get the stem and the cap done, but I’d probably fail miserably on the gills. The top and bottom of the stem was made from 3/4″ plywood. She used (3) 2x4s in the center to create an approximately 18″ diameter stem. The 2×4’s are secured to the base using lag screws and washers for extreme strength and stability.  For her build, Rania was lucky enough to have access to a wood cable spool which provided the perfect oversized round base.  The stem was then wrapped with chicken wire. The build of the mushroom cap is pretty ingenious, it consists of a 1′ piece of 4×4 that is securely screwed to a sheet of plywood with lag screws.  She then proceeded to bore four holes through the four by four and ran some rigid electrical conduit through it. Once in place the conduit was bent to provide the cap with a more “mushroom” shaped appearance. Some 3/4″ poly-flex tubing was screwed to the end of the rigid conduit to give the cap a finished, rounded edge.  A layer of chicken wire was then added to the cap which was covered with a dense cheesecloth to hold the layers of spray foam. Think Rania bought a couple of cans of Great Stuff?  Guess again, because this is where she takes this project up a...

So are you ready to scare your friends and neighbors this Halloween? Well, The Davis Graveyard is ready to lend you a hand with the announcement of their 2014 workshop schedule.  You’ll learn some incredible techniques plus you’ll walk out with a finished prop! Workshops for 2014 include: Tombstone Workshops $50 per person; $20 partner fee – Limited to 12 per session Saturday June 21, 2014 – 9:00 am – 1:00 pm Saturday June 21, 2014 – 2:00 pm – 6:00 pm Saturday July 19, 2014 – 9:00 am – 1:00 pm Saturday July 19, 2014 – 2:00 pm – 6:00 pm   Advanced Tombstone Workshops $75 per person; $20 partner fee – Limited to 8 per session Saturday August 30, 2014 – 9:00 am – 1:00 pm Saturday August 30, 2014 – 2:00 pm – 6:00 pm     Foam Coffin Workshop $45 per person; $55 materials fee ($100 total); partner fee $20 – Limited to 6 per session Saturday July 26, 2014 – 9:00 am – 3:00 pm     Time Monument Workshop $45 per person; $180 materials fee ($225 total); partner fee $20 – Limited to 6 per session Saturday August 16-17, 2014 – 9:00 am – 3:00 pm (Sunday will start later & end earlier)  ...

There’s nothing worse than a building a toe pincher coffin with pristine looking lumber.  Yeah, it still looks good, but you probably want it to look as though it’s fresh from the ground instead of Home Depot.  If you’re lucky enough to have some old pallets or some weathered wood laying around, then read no further, but if you’re anything like me you’re going to want to age it pretty quickly.  Terror Tom has a great technique for aging wood that’s easy to achieve and only takes 1 night to prep for. You’ll need to fill a mason jar with as much white vinegar as you think you’ll need to coat your wood and add a nicely rusted item to it.  You can use rusty nails, screws, or even steel wool.  Let it soak over night and when you wake up you should have a rather rusty (and pungent) solution that will quickly age your wood.     Items needed to complete this include: Rusty nails or steel wool Mason jar White...